you're no one unless you're talked about, Chanel.

I saw this full page ad on the back cover of Women’s Wear Daily last week, which apparently was not so much an ad, but “a note of information and entreaty to fashion editors, advertisers, copywriters, and other well-intentioned mis-users” of the Chanel name.

[click for bigger]

Basically, what Chanel is saying is that they don’t want people to use their name unless they’re speaking directly about Chanel or it’s products, and ending this “entreaty” to the very people who contribute to the growth of their business with a thinly veiled legal threat.

This might be an argument that makes sense for some brands, but Chanel is one of the most iconic fashion brands in the world. Their interlocking C logo and their signature pieces that they repeat over and over- quilted bags, jackets with logo buttons – scream to the world that they want you to associate them with certain things. And when you’ve achieved such iconic status, you’ve got to expect that people are going to talk about you. They’ll compare other things to you and notice when others are influenced by you. Have we learned nothing from Gossip Girl?

Obviously, Chanel thinks being mentioned in this way is diluting their brand, but in fact, when fashion editors say a cardigan is “Chanel-esque”, they’re building the Chanel brand, not the copycat’s. They’re building aspiration and desire. And let’s face it — the people who are in a position to actually buy a Chanel cardigan will likely do just that, eschewing tributes and homages for actual Chanel, while people who can’t afford Chanel will be slightly mollified with their knockoff, but still wish for the real thing.

To own certain looks and items of clothing in such a way that these things will always be compared to the Chanel version, no matter who makes them, is certainly a feat. I think a lot of brands would love to be in this position. Look at the literary and film worlds – having an entire adjective dedicated to your style (Proustian, Kafkaesque, Hitchcockian) is a clear indicator of fame and reverence.

I guess I just can’t figure out why, if Chanel is so flattered by tributes to their name, they would want to reprimand and potentially punish the people paying them tribute?

xoxo…

Comments

[Matt Daniels]

A slightly tangential/random comment: sometime ago in my Business Strategy class, I spent over 45 minutes debating with the prof about knock-off purses.

The prof was vehemently opposed to such counterfeits. Her argument was that such counterfeits diluted the brand, not only by being sold on the alleys of Canal street, but also by being fashioned by the latest redneck visiting New York from West Virginia (no offense, West Virginia).

I disagreed, fundamentally, on the same grounds that you're opposed to Chanel's letter. The fact that the purses are knocked-off and plastered on Canal street enhances the brand (i.e., brands would love to be in this position). And to your point, people that can afford the real thing will do just that, while to frugal middle class are attracted to the version from China.

But fake purses are a step further than Chanel on jacket, potentially displacing sales of the real thing. What do you think?

[amber finlay]

Hmm...it's tough, because with actual counterfeit goods, there are issues that dilute the brand, but not because their logo is in more places. I think that the perception of their quality goes down if there are a lot of fakes floating around, and also it seems more accessible (which is usually not what luxury brands are after, I think). Also there's the issue of how counterfeit goods are made - working conditions and so forth. I think Louis Vuitton sets a good example by being incredibly proactive in prosecuting purveyors of counterfeit goods.

But, there's a huge difference between actual fake goods being created and sold with your brand name on them, and your brand name being used as a benchmark for comparison in upscale publications. They chose to place that ad in WWD - where fashion editors would see it, not counterfeiters. To me, these are two different issues - being used to describe things influenced by you, and going after people who are actually making money off your brand name.

I just think that if you work so hard to become iconic, you have to expect that people will compare things to your brand.

[amber finlay]

Hmm...it's tough, because with actual counterfeit goods, there are issues that dilute the brand, but not because their logo is in more places. I think that the perception of their quality goes down if there are a lot of fakes floating around, and also it seems more accessible (which is usually not what luxury brands are after, I think). Also there's the issue of how counterfeit goods are made - working conditions and so forth. I think Louis Vuitton sets a good example by being incredibly proactive in prosecuting purveyors of counterfeit goods.

But, there's a huge difference between actual fake goods being created and sold with your brand name on them, and your brand name being used as a benchmark for comparison in upscale publications. They chose to place that ad in WWD - where fashion editors would see it, not counterfeiters. To me, these are two different issues - being used to describe things influenced by you, and going after people who are actually making money off your brand name.

I just think that if you work so hard to become iconic, you have to expect that people will compare things to your brand.

[David]

I'm reminded of this youtube video. Obviously you want to keep competitive companies from using your name, but when you become a household word with connotations of high quality, every mention of your brand only builds it up.

[Jimmy Gilmore]

All good points. But I think the concern is if their name becomes a commonplace vernacular they loose control of the word. Like Xerox became commonplace for copy. This a serious issue with big brands. You can read more about it here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genericized_trademark

[louis]

Yes, when you become a household word with connotations of high quality, every mention of your brand only builds it up.